Krabi FRITTOMISTO Divers
Events
- Religion
Theravada Buddhism is the professed religion of more than 90% of all Thais,
and casts strong influences on daily life. Buddhism first appeared in
Thailand during the 3rd Century B.C. at Nakhon Pathom, site of the world's
tallest Buddhist monument, after the Indian Buddhist Emperor Asoka (267-227
B.C.) despatched missionaries to Southeast Asia to propagate the newly
established faith. Besides moulding morality, providing social cohesion and
offering spiritual succour, Buddhism provided incomparable artistic impetus.
In common with medieval European cathedrals, Thailand's innumerable
multiroofed temples inspired major artistic creation. Another reason for
Buddhism's strength is that there are few Thai Buddhist families in which at
least one male member has not studied the Buddha's teachings in a monastery.
It has long been a custom for Buddhist males over twenty, once in their
lifetimes, to be ordained for a period ranging from s days to a months. This
usually occurs daring the annual Rains Retreat, a a-month period during the
Rains Season when all monks forego travel and stay inside their monasteries.
Besides sustaining monastic communities, Thai temples have traditionally
served other purposes – – as the village hostelry, village news, employment
and information agency, a school, hospital, dispensary and community centre
– – to give them vital roles in Thai society. The Thais have always
subscribed to the ideal of religious freedom. Thus sizeable minorities of
Muslims, Christians, Hindus and Sikhs freely pursue their respective faiths.
Language
Spoken and written Thai remain largely incomprehensible to the casual
visitor. However, English is widely understood, particularly in Bangkok
where it is almost the major commercial language. English and other European
languages are spoken in most hotels, shops and restaurants, in major tourist
destinations, and Thai-English road and street signs are found nation-wide.
Temples
There are thousands of temples, or wat, in Thailand. Some of these vary in
style and size but according to the principles of Buddhist architecture, the
structures within a temple should include a bot, or ubosot, for religious
ceremonies such as ordinations; a wihan to house various Buddha images and
for laypersons to take part in religious services; a Sala kanparien which is
a large meeting hall which is not only used for religious services but also
sometimes as a social or civic center; a mondop for storing the Buddhist
scriptures; chedi for housing sacred relics or images; a ho rakang, or
belfry, to sound the time for ceremonies, prayers, etc. and kuti where the
monks live. Some may also have a library, a crematorium and a school.
Wat
A Wat is a Thai Buddhist temple or monastery. In most cases it is not just
one building, but a collection of buildings, shrines, and monuments within a
courtyard that is enclosed by a wall.
The Bot
The Bot (also called Ubosot) is the ordination hall of a Wat. It is the
place where new monks take their vows. You can recognize a building as a Bot
by the six boundary stones (Bai Sema) that define the limits of its
sanctuary. Bots are usually open only to the monks. The building faces east
and usually houses an altar and one or several Buddha images. The hornlike
finial on the roof ridge is called the chofa, representing the head of the
garuda.
Chofah
Chofahs are the bird-like decorations on the end of the temple roofs. If you
visit the Museum of the Emerald Buddha near the Grand Palace in Bangkok you
can see examples of Chofahs displayed in glass cases in the ground floor and
have a closer look at them. Chofahs are often decorated with little bells
that tinkle in the wind.
Chedi
A Chedi (a different term would be stupa or pagoda) is a domed edifice,
often quite tall, under which relics of the Buddha or revered religious
teachers are buried.
Prang
A Prang is an Ayutthayan or Khmer-style Chedi that is high and slim and
looks like a vertical ear corn. Many of the Chedis in Wat Phra Kaew or Wat
Po in Bangkok are Prangs.
Mondop
A Mondop (also called Mandapa) is a baldachin structure that has in some
temples been erected above the library with the sacred Buddhist scripts.
Ho Trai
The Ho Trai (also transcripted as "Ho Phra") is the library of the Wat. It
is usually a very small, highly decorated building. In the Central Plains it
often sits on columns in a pond . The holy scripts and sacred manuscripts of
the Wat are kept inside.
Viharn
A Viharn is a sermon hall. It is usually the busiest building in a Wat and
open to everyone (provided the visitor behaves according to the temple
etiquette!: you must be properly dressed, take off your shoes before
entering a building and behave quietly) Just like the Bots, Viharns hold an
altar and one or several Buddha images.
Sala
A Sala is an open-sided pavilion. Some Viharns are built in this style
Naga
A Naga is a representation of a mystical serpent that according to the holy
scripts sheltered the Buddha while he was meditating. In temple
architecture, it runs down the edge of the roof, or, especially in Lanna
(North of Thailand) temples, flanks the staircase that ascends to the Viharn
or Bot. In sculptures, it is depicted sheltering the head of the Buddha with
its own. Beautiful representations of Nagas are known from Khmer art, as
found in the Khmer ruins in the Northeast of Thailand.
Any of us have at one time or another found the toll of living in the modern
world hard to bear. Stress, depression and disillusionment are some of the
diseases of modern times that leave us yearning for a solution, a cure, so
to speak. More and more people are turning to meditation as they fail to
find the answer through worldly paths.
Meditation is found in some form or other in all major religious traditions.
Even those who are not religious use it to focus the mind, to hone it, so
that it works better. In Buddhism, meditation is the integral to the
eight-fold path to enlightenment. One trains one’s mind so that it can see
the four-point Supreme Truth that forms the core of Buddha’s teachings:
suffering, what causes it, the end of suffering, and the path to that end.
Even if you are not interested in Buddhism, meditation is a valuable
training that can be applied to daily life, for it helps with concentration
and when done correctly can lead to a state of peace and calmness that’s
beyond worldly joys.
There are two main branches in Buddhist meditation: samatha (calmness,
concentration) and vipassana (insight), which stresses mindfulness. This
doesn’t mean that the two are entirely separate, since you cannot be mindful
unless you have at least some level of concentration.
The techniques of samatha meditation are many, some older than Buddhism,
others developed after the time of the Buddha. Among the most commonly
practiced here is anapanasati, or “mindfulness with breathing.” This
technique was advocated by the Venerable Buddhadasa Bhikku (1903-1993),
founder of Suan Mokkh Forest Monastery in Surat Thani. Meditators at Suan
Mokkh (Garden of Liberation), follow the 16 steps of anapanasati as laid
down in Pali texts.
Mantra meditation, in which you repeat a few words over and over, is also
widely practiced. Followers of this technique may chant “Buddh” as they
inhale, and “dho” as they exhale. The words may vary, but the purpose of
chanting is really to get the mind focused. Yet another widely taught
technique is kasinas, where meditators concentrate on an object outside
themselves, such as the flame of a candle, or a crystal ball.
Sati, or mindfulness, is key to vipassana meditation. You train yourself to
be aware of the body’s action, the rise and fall of your chest as you inhale
and exhale, the movement of your feet and legs as you walk, as well as your
feelings, your thought, and finally, the state of mind you are in. Walking,
sitting and lying meditation are but a few of vipassana techniques. When the
mind is untrained, concentration can be shattered by the slightest
stimuli—noise, smell, heat, hunger, pain, etc. The key is to become aware of
what happens, but not dwell on it. Still, a novice can only ward off so much
distraction, and that’s one reason why vipassana retreats are usually held
in peaceful and isolated settings.
Meditation teachings are widely available in Thailand. You can attend a
class at one of the teaching monasteries for an afternoon or evening. Wat
Mahadhatu near the Grand Palace, for example, has two meditation training
centers open to locals and tourists. Or you may join a vipassana retreat,
which usually takes a weekend or longer. A number of retreat centers, most
of them located in the provinces, run intensive courses of up to four weeks
on an ongoing basis. All vipassana retreats require you to follow the Five
Buddhist Precepts. These include refraining from harming all living beings,
from taking what is not given, from improper sexual behavior, from lying and
incorrect speech, and from taking liquors and drugs that will cloud the
mind. Some retreats may require that you take you take the Eight Precepts,
which in addition to the first five include refraining from dinner, from all
forms of entertainment and bodily decoration, and from sleeping on high
mattresses.
Respect for one’s teacher is inherent in Thai culture. At the start of a
vipassana session, you must attend an opening ceremony, where you pay
respect to the meditation masters and present them with traditional Buddhist
offerings of incense sticks, candles and flowers—usually three lotuses or a
hand garland. There is also a closing ceremony, where you thank your
teachers and bid them a formal farewell. Even if you cannot stay for the
duration of the course, be sure to perform this ritual before you leave,
since not doing so is considered very rude.
Once you get enrolled in a course, be sure to follow only the technique
taught there. Mixing techniques will only confuse you. Usually, you are
given instructions daily, and required to report your progress—or lack of
it—to your meditation master on the following day. After the interview you
will be given advice and new instructions, or old ones to repeat.
All-white, modest clothing is required at vipassana retreats. Check ahead if
there is a shop on the compound, or if you have to bring your own. At most
monasteries, simple accommodation and food are provided, usually free of
charge. Talking, reading and writing are discouraged, as they will distract
you from your meditation. And meditators are not allowed to leave the
retreat compound unless absolutely necessary, so be sure to bring enough
change of clothes, toiletries and personal items for the duration of the
course.
For first-time meditators, it might help to attend a day session or two
before you join a long retreat. Bangkok has a number of meditation centers
offering day classes in English. Many temples around the country also teach
samatha and vipassana meditation. Contact the nearest office of the Tourism
Authority of Thailand for a list of local temples where English-speaking
classes can be arranged.
□ International Buddhist Meditation Center (IBMC)
Dhamma Vicaya Hall, Wat Mahadhatu, Tha Prachan, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 623-6326, 623-6328 (Afternoons only, 1-7.30 p.m.)
IBMC is the vipassana teaching center of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist
University, one of the highest seats of Buddhist learning in the country.
Mindfulness meditation classes in English are held daily, from 1-6 p.m.
except on Buddhist holidays and Sundays. Bring flowers, nine sticks of
incense and a candle for the opening ceremony. The Center also organizes
vipassana retreats at Buddha Monthon in Nakhon Pathom, usually on major
Buddhist holidays and long weekends. Dhamma talks to groups can be arranged
by request.
□ Section Five, Wat Mahadhatu
Tha Prachan, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 222-6011
Thais and foreigners have long come to Section Five of Wat Mahadhatu to
learn mindfulness meditation. Classes are held from 7-10 p.m., 1-4 p.m. and
6-8 p.m. These are mixed; at any given session there will be beginners and
advanced meditators, monks and laymen, locals and tourists. English-speaking
instruction is available on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. You can come
for a retreat of three days or longer. Meals and accommodation are provided
on the compounds free of charge. Bring enough sets of clothes, toiletries
and personal items, and an offering of flowers, a candle and nine sticks of
incense for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted but not solicited.
□ Wat Bhaddanta Asahba Theravada & Sommitre Pranee Vipassana Center
118/1 Moo 1, Baan Nong Pru, Nong Pai Kaiw, Baan Bung, Chonburi 20220
Tel: (66-38) 292-361, 01 455-2360, 01-343-7295, email: wat_asabha@yahoo.com
Capacity: 30 persons (Recommend booking in advance)
Meditation Master : Ajahn Bhaddanta Asabha, Ajahn Somsak Sorado
The retreat is widely open for both beginner and experienced meditators. On
the retreat, all meditators are expected to keep silence at all times except
when giving meditation reports. All meditators must keep the eight training
precepts. Meditators need only bring conservative clothing (preferably white
colored clothing), personal hygiene accessories and essential medication.
Ajahn Asabha was Head Meditation Master at Vivek Asom Meditation Center (Chonburi,
Thailand), where he taught vipassana meditation for 37 years. In 1999, Ajahn
Asabha became President of Wat Bhaddanta Asabha Theravada and Head
Meditation Master at Sommit Pranee Vipassana Meditation Center, where he now
resides.
Ajahn Somsak Sorado, a disciple of Ajahn Asabha, has been teaching vipassana
meditation at Vivek Asom Meditation Center for over 5 years. He was in the
United States on Buddhist missionary duties for 2 years and is now
permanently stationed at Wat Bhaddanta Asabha Theravada.
□ Northern Insight Meditation Center at Wat Rampoeng (Tapotharam)
Tumbon Suthep, Amphoe Muang, Chiang Mai
Tel/Fax: (66-53) 278-620
The Northern Insight Meditation Center has been teaching mindfulness
meditation to thousands of tourists and locals for more than 20 years. It
has English-speaking monks, nuns and volunteer facilitators on staff. The
center offers a 26-day basic course on an ongoing basis. After you have
completed this course you can join the 10-day Insight Meditation Retreat.
Tourists are required to present two passport photos, two copies each of a
valid passport and visa with entry stamp. Modest white clothing is required;
this can be bought at the Temple’s store. Dormitory-style accommodation and
meals are provided free of charge. Donations are accepted but not solicited.
□ Wat Phra Dhatu Sri Chomthong
Tumbon Baan Luang, Amphoe Chomthong, Chiang Mai
Tel: (66-53) 826-869
This temple is headed by the monk who founded the Northern Insight
Meditation Center at Wat Rampoeng. Meditation retreats are held on an
ongoing basis. Meditators must present identification card or valid
passport, and inform the temple of their intended length of stay. Then they
can choose whether to follow the Five or Eight Precepts. The temple provides
meals and simple, dormitory-style lodgings, most with their own bathroom.
Proper clothing is available at a shop next door to the monastery. Bookings
are advised, since the retreats draw large crowds during major Buddhist
holidays and Chinese vegetarian festival.
□ Suan Mokkh Forest Monastery
Amphoe Chaiya, Surat Thani
Tel: (66-77) 431-596-7 Fax:(66-77) 431-597
e-mail: santikaro@suanmokkh.org website: www.suanmokkh.org
Founded in 1932 by the late Venerable Buddhadasa Bhikku, meditation master
and Buddhist scholar, Suan Mokkh holds a 10-day meditation course on an
ongoing basis. During the course participants will explore two inter-related
subjects: dhamma and meditation. Meditation instruction focuses on
mindfulness with breathing (anapanasati), a system of training used and
taught most often by the Buddha. Dhamma talks are held daily, and everyone
is encouraged to participate. English-speaking facilitators called “Friends”
offer guidance on meditation practice and all other aspects of the course.
□ Young Buddhists Association of Thailand (YBAT)
58/8 Soi Petchkasem 54, Petchkasem Road, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 413-3131, 413-1706
□ Sthiradhamma Sthana
24/5 Soi Watcharapol, Ramindra Soi 55, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 510-6697, 510-4765 Fax: (662) 519-4633
□ Sorn-Thawee Meditation Center, Chachoengsao
Tel: (66-38) 541-405
□ Wat Kow Tham International Meditation Center
Ko Phangan, Surat Thani 84280
□ House of Dhamma (Vipassana) Insight Meditation Center
26/9 Chompol Lane, Lat Phrao Soi 15 Chatuchak, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 511-0439 (weekends or evenings only) Fax: (662) 512-6083
□ Vivek Ashram Vipassana Meditation Center, Chonburi
Tel: (66-38) 283-766
□ Wat Pah Nanachart (International Forest Monastery)
Ban Bung Wai, Amphoe Warin, Ubon Ratchathani 34310
MONARCHY
His Majesty Bhumibol Adulyadej (which is pronounced 'Phumiphon Adunyadet')
is the ninth king of the Chakri dynasty (founded in 1782) and as of 1988 the
longest reigning king in Thai history. Born in the USA in 1927, where his
father Prince Mahidol was studying medicine at Harvard University, and
schooled in bangkok and Switzerland, King Bhumibol was a nephew of Rama VII
as well as the younger brother of Rama VIII. His full name, including royal
title, is Phrabaatsomdet Boramintaramahaphumiphonadunyadet.
His Majesty ascended the throne in 1946 following the death of Rama VIII,
who had reigned as king for only one year. In 1996, Thailand celebrated the
king's 50th year of reign. His Majesty is the world's longest reigning,
living monarch. A Jazz composer and saxophonist, King Bhumibol wrote the
royal anthem (the music that accompanies photos of the royal family shown
before every film at cinemas throughout the country). He is fluent in
English, French, German and Thai.
The King and Queen Sirikit have four children: princess Ubol Ratana (born
1951), Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn (1952), Princess Chulabhorn (1957).
A royal decree issued by King Trailok (1448-88) to standardize succession in
a polygamous dynasty makes the king's senior son or full brotherhood 'uparaja'
or heir apparent. Thus Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn was officially designated
as crown prince and heir when he reached 20 years of age in 1972; if he were
to decline the crown or be unable to ascend the throne due to incurable
illness or death, the senior princess (Ubol Ratana) would be next in line.
Thailand's political system is officially classified as a constitutional
monarchy, but the Thai constitution stipulates that the king be 'enthroned
in a position of revered workship' and not be exposed 'to any sort of
accusation or action'.
With or without legal writ, the vast majority of Thai citizens regards King
Bhumibol as a sort of demigod, partly in deference to tradition but also
because of his involvement in impressive public works. Along with nation and
religion, the monarchy is very highly regarded in Thai society. Negative
comment about the king or any member of the royal family is a social as well
as legal taboo.
The monarchy is held in considerable respect in Thailand and visitors should
be respectful too - avoid disparaging remarks about the king, queen or
anyone in the royal family. One of Thailand's more outspoken intellectuals,
Sulak Sivaraksa, was arrested in the early 1980s for lese-majesty because of
a passing reference to the king's fondness for yachting (Sulak referred to
His Majesty as 'the skipper') and again in 1991 when he referred to the
royal family as 'ordinary people'. Although on that occasion he received a
royal pardon, later in 1991 Sulak had to flee the country to avoid
prosecution again, for alleged remarks delivered at Thammasat University
about the ruling military junta, with reference to the king (Sulak has since
returned under a suspended sentence). The penalty for lese-majesty is seven
years imprisonment.
While it's OK to criticize the Thai government and even Thai culture openly,
it's considered a grave insult to Thai nationhood as well as to the monarchy
not to stand when you hear the national or royal anthems. Radio and TV
stations in Thailand broadcast the national anthem daily at 8 am and 6 pm;
in towns and villages (even in some Bangkok neighbourhoods) this can be
heard over public loudspeakers in the streets. The Thais stop whatever
they're doing to stand during the anthem (except in Bangkok, where nobody
can hear anydying above the street noise) and visitors are expected to do
likewise. The royal anthem is played just before films are shown in public
cinemas; again, the audience always stands until it's over.
SOCIETY
Traditional Culture
When outsiders speak of 'Thai culture' they're referring to a complex of
behavioral modes rooted in the history of Thai migration throughout
South-East Asia, with many commonalties shared by the Lao people of
neighbouring Laos, the Shan of north-eastern Myanmar and the numerous tribal
Thais found in isolated pockets from Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam, all the way to
Assam, India. Nowhere are such norms more generalized than in Thailand, the
largest of the Thai homelands.
Practically every ethnicity in Thailand, whether of Thai ancestry or not,
has to a greater or lesser degree been assimilated into the Thai mainstream.
Although Thailand is the most 'modernized' of the existing Thai (more
precisely, Austro-Thai) societies, the cultural underpinnings are evident in
virtually every facet of everyday life. Those aspects that might be deemed 'westernisation'
- eg the wearing of trousers instead of a 'phaakhamaa' (wrap-around), the
presence of automobiles, cinemas and 7-Eleven stores - show how Thailand has
adopted and adapted tools originating from elsewhere.
Such adaptations do not necessarily represent a cultural loss. Ekawit Na
Talang, a scholar of Thai culture and head of the Thai government's National
Cultural Commission, defines culture as 'the system of thought and behaviour
of a particular society - something which is dynamic and never static'.
Talang and other world culture experts agree that it's paradoxical to try to
protect a culture from foreign influences, realizing that cultures cannot
exist in a vacuum.
Culture evolves naturally as outside influences undergo processes of
naturalization. From this perspective, trying to maintain a 'pure' culture
is like breeding pedigreed dogs : it eventually leads to a weakening of the
species. As Talang has theorized, 'Anything obsolete, people will reject and
anything that has a relevant role in life, people will adopt and make it
part of their culture'.
The Thais themselves don't really have a word that corresponds to the term
'culture'. The nearest equivalent, 'watanatham', emphasizes fine arts and
ceremonies over other aspects usually covered by the concept. So if you ask
Thais to define their culture, they'll often talk about architecture, food,
dance, festivals and the like. Religion - obviously a big influence on
culture as defined in the western sense - is considered more or less
separate from 'watanatham'.
Nevertheless there are certain aspects of Thais society that virtually
everyone recognizes as 'Thai' cultural markers.
Sanuk
The Thais word 'sanuk' means 'fun'. In Thailand anything worth doing - even
work - should have an element of 'sanuk', otherwise it automatically becomes
drudgery. This doesn't mean Thais don't want to work or strive, just that
they tend to approach tasks with a sense of playfulness. Nothing condemns as
activity more than the description 'mai sanuk', 'not fun'. Sit down beside a
rice field and watch workers planting, transplanting or harvesting rice some
time while you're in Thailand.
That it's back-breaking labour is obvious, but participants generally inject
the activity with lots of 'sanuk' - flirtation between the sexes, singing,
trading insults and cracking jokes. The same goes in an office or a bank, or
other white-collar work situation - at least when the office in question is
predominantly Thai (businesses run by non-Thais don't necessarily exhibit 'sanuk').
The famous Thai smile comes partially out of this desire to make 'sanuk'.
Face
Thais beleive strongly in the concept of 'saving face', that is avoiding
confrontation and endeavouring not to embarrass themselves or other people
(except when it's 'sanuk' to do so). The ideal face-saver doesn't bring up
negative topics in conversation, and when they notice stress in another's
life, they usually won't say anything unless that person complains or asks
for help. Laughing at minor accidents - like when someone trips and falls
down - may seem callous to outsiders but it's really just an attempt to save
face on behalf of the person undergoing the mishap. This is another source
of the Thai smile - it's the best possible face for almost any situation.
MONKS
Socially, every Thai male is excepted to become a monk for a short period in
his life, optimally between the time he finishes school and the time he
starts a career or marries. Men or boys under 20 years of age may enter the
Sangha as novices - this is not unusual since a family earns great merit
when one if its sons 'takes robe and bowl'.
Traditionally, the length of time spent in the 'wat' is three months, during
the Buddhist lent (phansa), which begins in July and coincides with the
rainy season. However, nowadays men may spend as little as a week or 15 days
to accrue merits monks.
There are about 32,000 monasteries in Thailand and 460,000 monks ; many of
these monks are ordained for a lifetime. Of these a large percentage become
scholars and teachers, while some specialize in healing and/or folk magic.
The Sangha is divided into two sects : the Mahanikai (Great Society) and the
Thammayut (from the Pali dhammayutika or 'dharma-adhering). The latter is a
minority sect (the ratio being one Thammayut to 35 Mahanikai) begun by King
Mongkut and patterned after an early Mon form of monastic discipline which
he had practiced as a monk ('bhikkhu'). Members of both sects must adhere to
227 monastic vows or precepts as laid out in the Vinya Pitaka - Buddhist
scriptures dealing with monastic discipline. Overall discipline for
Thammayut monks, however, is generally stricter.
For example, they eat only once a day - before noon - and must eat only what
is in their alms bowl, whereas Mahanikais eat twice before noon and may
accept side dishes. Thammayut monks are expected to attain proficiency in
meditation as well as Buddhist scholarship or scripture study ; the
Manahanikai monks typically 'specialize' in one or the other. Other factors
may supersede sectarian divisions when it comes to disciplinary disparities.
Monks who live in the city, for example, usually emphasize study of the
Buddhist scriptures while those living in the forest tend to emphasize
meditation.
• International Dhama Hermitage :
Wat Suan Mok,Chaiya, Surat Thani
Tel. (077) 431552
• Northern Insight Meditation Centre :
Wat Ram Poeng, Canal Rd, Chaing Mai
Tel. (053) 278620
• Old Medicine Hospital :
78/1 Soi Moh Shivagah Komarapaj, Wualai Road,Chiang Mai
Tel. (053) 275085
• Wat Pa Nanachat :
Beung Rai Baan Bung Wai Amphoe Warinchamrab, Ubon Ratchathani
• Wat Phra Dhammakaya :
23/2 Mu 7 Khong Sam, Khlong Luang, Pathum Thani
Tel.(02) 524 0257
• World Fellowship of Buddhists :
33 Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok
Tel.(02) 251 1188
POPULATION & PEOPLE
The population of Thailand is about 61.4 million and currently growing at a
rate of 1 % to 1.5% per annum (as opposed to 2.5% in 1979), thanks to a
vigorous nationwide family-planning campaign.
Over a third of all Thais live in urban areas. Bangkok is by far the largest
city in the kingdom, with a population of over six million (more than 10% of
the total population) - too many for the scope of its public services and
what little 'city planning' exists. Ranking the nation's other cities by
population depends on whether you look at thetsabaan (municipal district)
limits or at meuang (metropolitan district) Emits.
By the former measure, the four most populated cities in descending order
(not counting the densely populated 'suburb' provinces of Samut Prakan and
Nonthaburi, which rank second and third if considered separately from
Bangkok) are Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), Chiang Mai, Hat Yai and Khon Kaen.
Using the rather misleading meuang measure, the ranking runs Udon Thani,
Lopburi, Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) and Khon Kaen. Most of the other towns
in Thailand have populations below 100,000.
The average life expectancy in Thailand is 69 years, the highest in mainland
South-East Asia. Yet only an estimated 59% of all Thais have access to local
health services; in this the nation ranks 75th worldwide, behind even
countries with lower national incomes such as Sudan and Guateinala. There is
only one doctor per 4316 people, and infant mortality figures are 26 per
1000 births (figures for neighbouring countries vary from 110 per 1000 in
Cambodia to 12 in Malaysia). Thailand has a relatively youthful population;
only about 12% are older than 50 years and 6% over 65.
The Thai Majority
About 75% of citizens are ethnic Thais, who can be divided into the Central
Thais, or Siamese, of the Chao Phraya Delta (the most densely populated
region of the country); the Thai Lao of North-Eastern Thailand; the Thai Pak
Tai of Southern Thailand; and the Northern Thais. Each group speaks their
own Thai dialect and to a certain extent practises customs unique to their
region. Politically and econon-iimly the Central Thais are the dominant
group, although they barely outnumber the Thai Lao of the North-East.
The Chinese
People of Chinese ancestry make up 11 % of the population, most of whom are
second or third generation Hakka, Chao Zhou, Hain- anese or Cantonese. In
the North there are also a substantial number of Hui - Chinese Muslims who
emigrated from Yunnan to Thailand in the late 19th century to avoid
religious and ethnic persecution during the Qing dynasty.
Minorities
The second largest ethnic minority group living in Thailand are the Malays
(3.5%), most of whom reside in the provinces of Songkhla, Yala, Pattani and
Narathiwat. The remaining 10.5% of the population is divided among smaller
non Thai-speaking groups like the Vietnamese, Khmer, Mon, Semang (Sakai),
Moken (chao leh or sea gypsies), Htin, Mabri, Khamu and a variety of hill
tribes.
RELIGION
Approximately 95% of the Thai citizens are Theravada Buddhists. The Thais
themselves frequently call their religion Lankavamsa (Sinhalese lineage)
Buddhism because Thailand originally received Buddhism from Sri Lanka during
the Sukhothai period. Strictly speaking, Theravada refers only to the
earliest forms of Buddhism practised during the Ashokan and immediate port-Ashokan
periods in South Asia. The early Dvaravati and pre-Dvaravati forms of
Buddhism - those which existed up until the 10th or 11th century - are not
the same as that which developed in Thai territories after the 13th century.
Since the Sukhothai period (13th to 15th centuries), Thailand has maintained
an unbroken canonical tradition and 'pure' ordination lineage, the only
country among the Theravadin countries to have done so. Ironically, when the
ordianation lineage in Sri Lanka broke down during the 18th century under
Dutch persecution, it was Thailand that restored the Sangha (Buddhist
brotherhood) there. To this day the major sect in Sri Lanka is called
Siamopalivamsa (Siam-Upali lineage, Upali being the name of the Siamese monk
who led the expedition to Ceylon), or simply Siam Nikaya (the Siamese sect).
Basically, the Theravada school of Buddhism is an earlier and, according to
its followers, less corrupted form of Buddhism than the Mahayana schools
found in East Asia or in the Himalayan lands. The Theravada (literally,
'teaching of the elders') school is also called the 'southern' school since
it took a southern route from India, its place of origin, through South-East
Asia (Mynmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia in this case), while the
'northern' school proceeded north into Nepal, Tibet, China, Korea, Mongolia,
Vietnam and Japan.
Because the Theravada school tried to preserve or limit the Buddhist
doctrines to only those canons codified in the early Buddhist era, the
Mahayana school gave Theravada Buddhism the name Hinayana, or the 'lesser
vehicle'. The Mahayana school was the 'great vehicle', because it built upon
the earlier teachings, 'expanding' the doctrine in such a way as to respond
more to the needs of lay people, or so it is claimed.
Buddha's words
The Buddha taught his disciples :
When you see, just see.
When you hear, just hear.
When you smell, just smell.
When you touch, just touch.
When you know, just know.
Many Thais express the feeling that they are somehow unworthly of nibbana.
By feeding monks, giving donations to temples and performing regular worship
at the local 'wat' (temple) they hope to improve their lot, acquiring enough
merit (Pali term 'punna' ; Thai term 'bun') to prevent or at least lessen
the number of rebirths. The making of merit ('tham bun') is an important
social and religious activity in Thailand. The concept of reincarnation is
almost universally accepted in Thailand, even by non-Buddhists, and the
Buddhist theory of karma is well expressed in the Thai proverb 'tham dii,
dai dii : tham chua, dai chua' (do good and receive good ; do evil and
receive evil).
The Triratna, or Triple Gems, highly respected by Thai Buddhists, include
the Buddha, the Dhamma (the teachings) and the Sangha (the Buddhist
brotherhood). All are quite visible in Thailand. The Buddha, in his myriad
and omnipresent sculptural forms, is found on a high shelf in the lowliest
roadside restaurants as well as in the lounges of expensive Bangkok hotels.
The Dhamma is chanted morning and evening in every 'wat' and taught to every
Thai citizen in primary school. The Sangha is seen everywhere in the
presence of orange-robed monks, especially in the early morning hours when
they perform their alms-rounds, in what has almost become a travel-guide
cliche in motion.
Thai Buddhism has no particular 'Sabbath' or day of the week when Thais are
supposed to make temple visits. Nor is there anythings corresponding to a
liturgy or mass over which a priest presides. Instead Thai Buddhists visit
the 'wat' whenever they feel like it, most often on 'wan phra' (literally,
'excellent days'), which occur with every full and new moon, ie every 15
days.
Buddhist Meditation
Suan Mok, a 120-acre forest temple in Chaiya district, Surat Thani province,
some 580 kilometres south of Bangkok, attracts and accepts meditators from
all over the world. Meditation opportunities are also found in Bangkok,
particularly at Wat Mahathat (facing Sanam Luang), \A/at Pak Nam, Wat
Chonprathan Rangsit, Wat Phrathammakai and Banglamphu's Wat Bowon Nivet
where English-language instruction is available.
DO'S & DON'T IN THAILAND
Getting Along In Thailand
Thailand is known for its tolerance and hospitality, and the average tourist
will have no difficulty in adjusting to the local customs All the same, as
when coming into any unfamiliar society, a visitor may find it helpful to be
aware of certain do's and don't's, and thus avoid making accidental
misunderstanding. Basically, most of these are simply a matter of common
sense and good manners not really all that different from the way one would
behave in one's own country but a few are special enough to be pointed out.
Dress & Nudity
Shorts (except knee- length walking shorts), sleeveless shirts, tank tops
(singles) and other beach-style attire are not considered appropriate dress
for anything other than sport g events. Such dress is especially
counterproductive if worn to government offices (eg when applying for a visa
extension). The attitude of 'This is how 1 dress at home and no-one is going
to stop me' gains nothing but contempt or disrespect from the Thais.
Sandals or slip-on shoes are OK for almost any but the most formal
occasions. Short-sleeved shirts and blouses with capped sleeves likewise are
quite acceptable.
Thais would never dream of going abroad and wearing dirty clothes, so they
are often shocked to see westerners travelling around Thailand in clothes
that apparently haven't been washed in weeks. If you keep up with your
laundry you'll receive much better treatment everywhere you go.
Regardless of what the Thais may or may not have been accustomed to
centuries ago, they are quite offended by public nudity today. Bathing nude
at beaches in Thailand is illegal. If you are at a truly deserted beach and
are sure no Thais may come along, there's nothing stopping you - however, at
most beaches travellers should wear suitable attire. Likewise, topless
bathing for females is frowned upon in most places except on
heavily-touristed islands like Phuket, Samui and Samet. According to
Thailand's National Parks Act, any woman who goes topless on a national park
beach (eg KO Chang, KO Phi Phi, Ko Samet) is breaking the law.
Many Thais say that nudity and topless sun- bathing on the beaches is what
bothers them most about foreign travellers. These Thais take nudity as a
sign of disrespect for the locals, rather than as a libertarian symbol or
modem custom. Thais are extremely modest in this respect (Patpong-style
go-go bars are cultural aberrations, hidden from public view and designed
for foreign consumption) and it should not be the visitor's intention to
'reform' them.
Special Advice
1. Beware of unauthorized people who offer their services as guides. Contact
the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)'s counters for all tourist
information. The TAT's counters are located in the Arrival Hall of the
Bangkok International Airport; at Terminal 1 Tel: 523-8972-3, or at Terminal
2 Tel: 535-2669 from 08.00 to 24.00 hrs.; at the main office on
Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue Tel: 281 -0422 during working hours of 08.30 to
16.30 hrs.
2. Visitors are advised to use the hotel taxi service at their hotel if they
do not know their way around or cannot speak the local language.
3. Observe all normal precautions as regards to personal safety, as well as
the safety of your belongings. Walking alone on quiet streets or deserted
areas is not recommended. Be sure that all your valuables -money, jewellery,
and airline tickets- are properly protected from loss.
4. Use the service of only registered travel agents.
5. Visitors needing assistance relating to safety, unethical practices, or
other matters, please call the Tourist Assistance Centre immediately (Tel:
281 -5051, 282-8129) or contact the Tourist Police (Tel: 678-6800- 9 or
1699)
6. Penalties for drug offences are very severe in Thailand, do not get
yourself involved with drugs.
7. Please drop your garbage into a waste container. The Bangkok Metropolitan
Administration is now strictly enforcing the law in an effort to keep the
city clean and healthy. The fine (maximum 2,000 baht) will be imposed on a
person who spits, discards cigarette stubs, or drops rubbish in public
areas.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Precautions
Although Thailand is in no way a dangerous country to visit, it's wise to be
a little cautious, particularly if you're travelling alone. Solo women
travellers should take special care on arrival at Bangkok international
airport, particularly at night. Don't take one of Bangkok's often very
unofficial taxis (black-and-white licence tags) by yourself - better a
licensed taxi (yellow-and-black tags) or even the public bus. Both men and
women should ensure their rooms are securely locked and bolted at night.
Inspect cheap rooms with thin walls for strategic peepholes.
Take caution when leaving valuables in hotel safes. Many travellers have
reported unpleasant experiences with leaving valuables in Chiang Mai
guesthouses while trekking. Make sure you obtain an iteniised receipt for
property left with hotels or guesthouses - note the exact quantity of
travellers cheques and all other valuables.
Security Concerns
Tourists should exercise caution in remote areas along the border with
Burma. The Thai/Burma border is the site of on-going conflicts between the
Burmese Army and armed opposition groups as well as clashes between Thai
security forces and armed drug traffickers. The far south of Thailand has
also experienced incidents of criminally and politically motivated violence,
including incidents attributed to armed local Muslim separatist groups. In
addition, six illegal aliens from Iran, Iraq, and Afghanistan were arrested
in the southern city of Hat Yai on October 5, 2001, with a box cutter and
suspicious electrical devices. Although Americans have not been specifically
targeted in either area, travelers should remain vigilant with regard to
their personal security. Tourists should obtain information from Thai
authorities about whether official border crossing points are open, and
should cross into neighboring countries only at designated crossing points.
Thai/Burma border crossings sometimes close temporarily as a result of armed
clashes in Burma between the Burmese army and Burmese ethnic groups.
Licensed guides can help ensure that trekkers do not cross inadvertently
into a neighboring country.Pirates, bandits, and drug traffickers operate in
the border areas. In February 2000, two Australians camping near the Burma
border in Ang Kang Park, in the Fang District, were attacked by robbers. One
of the campers was shot and killed. In April 1999, a dozen Thai villagers
and tribesmen were killed in separate incidents near Thailand's northern
border with Burma. In January 2000, 10 gunmen from two fringe groups in
Burma crossed into Thailand and took several hundred people hostage at a
provincial hospital in Ratchaburi Province. All ten gunmen were killed when
Thai authorities stormed the hospital to end the crisis.
Travelers should be aware that there are occasional incidents of violence on
Thailand's northern and eastern borders with Laos. In July 2000, five people
were killed and several fled to Thailand during a skirmish between apparent
insurgents and government forces in Laos near the eastern border crossing at
Chong Mek. Additionally, two U.S. citizens in 1999 and one in early 2000
were reported missing after attempting to cross illegally into Laos at the
Lao-Thai border.Although tourists have not been targeted specifically by
this occasional violence, due caution remains advisable. It is recommended
that persons wishing to travel to border areas check with the Thai tourist
police and the U.S. Consulate General in Chiang Mai or the U.S. Embassy in
Bangkok. Strong seasonal undercurrents at popular beach resorts sometimes
pose a fatal threat to surfers and swimmers.
During the monsoon season, which is from May through October, drowning is
the leading cause of death for tourists visiting Phuket. Some, but not all,
beaches have warning flags to indicate the degree of risk (red flag: sea
condition dangerous for swimming; yellow flag: sea condition rough, swim
with caution; green flag: sea condition stable). In July 2001, an American
tourist died in a surfing accident in Phuket at a beach that was not marked.
CRIME INFORMATION: In recent years, crimes of opportunity such as
pick-pocketing, purse-snatching, and burglaries have become more common,
though the crime threat in Bangkok remains less than in many American
cities. Violent crimes against foreigners are relatively rare. Travelers
should be especially wary when walking in crowded markets, tourist sites and
bus or train stations. Women are generally not subject to sexual harassment.
Reports of serious transportation-related crimes involving taxis or
three-wheeled vehicles called "tuk tuks" are relatively rare, though fare
scams can occur. More serious are incidents in which drivers tout
disreputable gem stores or entertainment venues because they receive money
for bringing in customers. Travelers should always use official metered
taxis in Bangkok and never enter a cab that has anyone besides a driver in
it. In March 2000, a U.S. citizen was attacked and robbed by a taxi driver
and an accomplice picked up en route by the driver. There are occasional
reports of scopolamine druggings perpetrated by prostitutes or unscrupulous
bar workers for the purpose of robbery. Tourists have also been victimized
by drugged food and drink, usually offered by a friendly stranger (sometimes
posing as a fellow traveler).
In addition, casual acquaintances met in a bar or on the street may pose a
threat. Travelers are advised to avoid leaving drinks or food unattended,
and they should avoid going to unfamiliar venues alone. Some trekking tour
companies, particularly in Northern Thailand, have been known to make drugs
available to trekkers. In July 2001, an American died after smoking opium in
a northern hill tribe village. Travelers should not accept drugs of any kind
because the drugs may be altered or harmful, and the use or sale of drugs is
illegal.Scams involving gems, city tours, entertainment venues and credit
cards are also common, especially in areas heavily frequented by tourists.
Credit cards should be used only in reputable, established businesses, and
the amount charged should be checked for accuracy.
Travelers should not accept tours or offers from touts who solicit on the
streets. Shopping at lesser-known gem stores carries a serious risk; the
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) receives over 1,000 complaints each year
from visitors who have been cheated on gem purchases. The gems often turn
out to be greatly overpriced, and money-back guarantees are not honored.
Lists of gem dealers who have promised to abide by TAT guidelines are
available online at http://www.tat.or.th/do/gems.htm, and information on gem
scams can be found on the Thai Tourist Police web site at
http://www.police.go.th/touristpolice/. A traveler who has fallen victim to
a gem scam should contact the local branch of the Tourist Police, or call
their country-wide toll-free number: 1155. Finally, bars or entertainment
venues in tourist areas may at times try to charge exorbitant amounts for
drinks or unadvertised cover charges. If victimized in this fashion,
travelers should not attempt to resolve the problem themselves, but should
instead pay the price demanded and then contact the nearest branch of the
Tourist Police for help in getting restitution. (The toll-free number for
the Tourist Police is indicated above.)
LEGAL MATTERS
In general Thai police don't hassle foreigners, especially tourists. If
anything they generally go out of their way not to arrest a foreigner
breaking minor traffic laws, rather taking the approach that a friendly
warning will suffice.
One major exception is drug laws, which most Thai police view as either a
social scourge with regard to which it's their duty to enforce the letter of
the law, or an opportunity to make untaxed income via bribes. Which
direction they'll go often depends on dope quantities; small-time offenders
are sometimes offered the chance to pay their way out of an arrest, while
traffickers usually go to jail.
A strong anti-littering law was passed in Bangkok in 1997 and there were
rumours that foreigners were being singled out for enforcement. 1 have
received no first-hand accounts of such cases, so can only note that these
remain unconfirmed reports. However it won't hurt to be extra vigilant about
where you dispose of cigarette butts and other refuse when in Bangkok.
If you are arrested for any offence, the police will allow you the
opportunity to make a phone call to your embassy or consulate in Thailand if
you have one, or to a friend or relative if not. There's a whole set of
legal codes governing the length of time and manner in which you can be
detained before being charged or put on trial, but a lot of discretion is
left up to the police. With foreigners the police are more likely to bend
these codes in your favour. However, as with police worldwide, if you don't
show respect you will make matters worse.
Thai law does not presume an indicted detainee to be either 'guilty' or
'innocent' but rather a 'suspect' whose guilt or innocence will be decided
in court. Trials are usually speedy.
Thailand has its share of attorneys, and if you think you're a high arrest
risk for whatever reason, it might be a good idea to get out the Bangkok
yellow pages, copy down a few phone numbers and carry them with you.
Tourist Police Hotline
The best way to deal with most serious hassles regarding ripoffs or thefts
is to contact the Tourist Police, who are used to dealing with foreigners,
rather than the regular Thai police. The Tourist Police maintain a hotline -
dial 1155 from any phone in Thailand, and ask for extension 1.
The Tourist Police can also be very helpful in cases of arrest. Although
they typically have no jurisdiction over the kinds of cases handled by
regular cops, they may be able to help with translation or with contacting
your embassy.
Drug Penalties
Drug Quantity Penalty
Marijuana
Smuggling
Possession
Posession
Heroin
Smuggling
Smuggling with intent to sell
Possession
any amount
less than 10kg
10 kg+
amy amount
any amount
10g+
2 to 15 years imprisonment
up to 5 years imprisonment
2 to 15 years imprisonment
life imprisonment
execution
imprisonment or execution
Note : 'Smuggling' refers to any drug possession at a border or airport
customs check.
SYSTEM COMPATIBILITY
Video Systems
The predominant video format in Thailand is PAL a system compatible with
that used in most of Europe (France's SECAM format is a notable exception)
as well as in Australia. This means if you're bringing video tapes from the
USA or Japan, which use the NTSC format, you'll have to bring your own VCR
to play them! Some video shops (especially those that carry pirated or
unlicensed tapes) sell NTSC as,well as PAL and SECAM tapes. A 'multisystem'
VCR has the capacity to play both NTSC and PAL, but not SFCAM (except as
black & white images).
Electricity
Electric current is 22OV, 50 cycles. Electrical wall outlets are usually of
the round, two pole type; some outlets also accept flat, two bladed
terminals, and some will accept either flat or round terminals. Any
electrical supply shop will carry adapters for any international plug shape
as well as voltage converters.
Film & Equipment
Print film is fairly inexpensive and widely available throughout Thailand.
Japanese print film costs around 1OOB per 36 exposures, US print film a bit
more. Fujichrome Velvia and Provia slide films cost around 225B per roll,
Kodak Ektachrome Elite is 200B and Ektachrome 200 about 280B. Slide film,
especially Kodachrome, can be hard to find outside Bangkok and Chlang Mai,
so be sure to stock up before heading upcountry. VHS video cassettes of all
sizes are readily available in the major cities.
Photographing People
Hill tribe people in some of the regularly visited areas expect money if you
photograph them, while certain Karen and Akha will not allow you to point a
camera at them. Use discretion when photographing villagers anywhere in
Thailand as a camera can be a very intimidating instrument. You may feel
better leaving your camera behind when visiting certain areas.
WHAT TO BRING
Bring as little as possible - one medium-sized shoulder bag, duffel bag or
backpack should do. Pack lightweight clothes, unless you're going to be in
the North in the cool season, in which case you should have a pullover.
Natural fibres can be cool and comfortable, except when they get soaked with
sweat or rain, in which case they quickly become heavy and block air flow.
Some of the lightweight synthetics breathe better than natural fibres, draw
sweat away rather than holding it in, and may be more suitable for the beach
or mid-rainy season.
Sunglasses are a must for most people and can be bought cheaply in Bangkok
and most provincial capitals. Slip-on shoes or sandles are highly
recommended - besides being cooler than lace-up shoes, they are easily
removed before entering a Thai home or temple. A small torch (flashlight) is
a good idea, as it makes it easier to find your way back to your bungalow at
night if you are staying at the beach or at a remote guest-house. A few
other handy things include a compass, a plastic lighter for lighting candles
and mosquito coils (lighters, candles and 'mossie' coils are available in
Thailand) and foam ear plugs for noisy nights.
Toothpaste, soap and most other toiletries can be purchased anywhere in
Thailand. Sun block and mosquito repellent (except high-percentage DEET) are
available, although they can be expensive and the quality of both is
generally substandard. If you plan to wash your own clothes, bring along a
universal sink plug, a few plastic clothes pegs and three metres of plastic
coed or plastic hangers for hanging wet clothes out to dry.
If you plan to spend a great deal of time in one or more of Thailand's beach
areas, you might want to bring your own snorkel and mask. This would save
you having to rent such gear and would also assure a proper fit. Shoes
designed for water sports, eg Aquasocks, are great for wearing in the water
wheater you're diving or not. They protect your feet from coral cuts, which
easily become infected.
WHEN TO GO
The best overall time for visiting most of Thailand vis-a-vis climate falls
between November and March - during these months it rains least and is not
so hot. Remember that temperatures are more even in the south, so the south
makes a good refuge when the rest of Thailand is miserably hot (April to
June). The north is best from mid-November to early December or in February
when it begins warming up again. If you're spending time in Bangkok, be
prepared to roast n April and do some flood-water wading in October -
probably the two worst months, weather-wise, for visiting the capital.
The peak months for tourist visitation are August, November, December,
February, and March, with secondary peak months in January and July. You
should consider travelling during the least crowed months (April, May, June,
September and October) if your main objective is to avoid vacationers and to
take advantage of discounted rooms and other low-season rates. On the other
hand it's not difficult to leave the crowds behind, even during peak months,
if you simply avoid some of the most popular destinations (eg Chiang Mai and
all islands and beaches).
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